http://ssuss.liveprepared.org/stake-safety-security-newsletter/
In our fast paced world, staying current can be challenging. Staying current with news/events, professional skills, hobbies/interest can be challenging.
I want to teach you how to save time & money, so you can live a better life.
I’ve been using RSS readers for about a decade to stay current with my fast changing “IT Profession”.
Imagine not having to watch the news everyday! but in that same amount of time, cover ALL the news material!?!
Imagine finding new articles, podcasts, videos in your hobbies/interest?
Imagine not having to re-review articles over and over as you hit a dozen different websites daily/weekly!
For me, I have not watched TV since 1999! BUT, I stay current on news, trends, intellectual theory/journals etc by using an RSS Reader.
1) Support mobile device (smart phone). Meaning, I can review while eating breakfast, or throughout my day as I have a few seconds here and there as slack time.
2) Be able to configure it on a full sized keyboard. Also, I want what I flag as READ on my mobile-device and computer to synchronize.
3) Flag articles as favorites to be referred to later…maybe for the rest of my life!
Products evaluated.
1) Firefox RSS “live bookmarks”. hee hee, remember when we used that!?! Pretty cool technology at the time!
2) Thunderbird email client, forums reader and RSS reader.
3) Google Rss Reader. Yeah, we are all sad it is no longer available!
4) INOreader (my favorite, that meets all my requirements).
So, lets talk about INOreader.
I have the app on my phone, and a toolbar link on my browser. I really do hit it everyday of my life 🙂 Gone are newspapers, books and old-school distribution of information!
Here is a screenshot of inoreader on my laptop. Its very similar on the mobile device!


1) http://www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/ – daily 60-90 minute podcasts that will change your life for the better. Healthier, happier, better family life, gardening.
2) My inoreader subscriptions (see above).
ALSO, I’m highly recommending that you use an RSS Feed to be notified of my new BLOGS.
So, to be honest, this is my 2nd attempt at a kydex sheath. I’m very good at making quality leather sheaths, mostly because I’ve made dozens of them. I’ve made hundreds of “perfection” Foxy Tucks; and I’m very happy with the fit & function of Kydex/leather holsters (and so are hundreds of customers). BUT, I don’t have a lot of mileage with Kydex Sheaths.
Kydex is quicker, easier and less expensive than leather. Kydex also has the advantage of not retaining water which in the field could rust your high-carbon blades.
This awesome knife came with a horrible sheath:
KNIFE: TOPS Steel Eagle 107C, 1095 High Carbon Alloy RC-58
![]()
Making a kydex sheath is quite EASY. However, attaching that Kydex shell to a backer in an “ideal” way is often difficult because the screws or other fasteners used to attach the shell to the backer might catch/rub on the blade and/or handle. I do want to make an attachment system out of leather; likely on my next project.
My idea was to take the junky sheath that came with the knife and cut off the part behind which you insert the blade; then use the remaining part of the original sheath as a backer for a Kydex shell.
1) If your blade has a saw on it, use file-folder cardboard to cover the saw. Otherwise it’ll be too tight and the saw will cut into the kydex.
Make sure you get the perfect blade gap. I believe this is achieved when you can wobble the blade inside the sheath. If you have an esee blade, try wobbling it inside the sheath and see how much blade-space there is.
2) Make sure you have 3 layers of painters tape to add a needed gap between the blade and sheath. I like painters tape, because it doesn’t leave a residue. You do NOT want the retention on the blade, it binds, has too much drag, and could wear your blade…or at least impact the finish.


6) I used a rubber washer for retention; so I could get the perfect retention…I want the blade to be vertical upside down…over my heart. 1/4″ of very hardened steel could provide “some protection”.
7) You need to consider the “drop” for a large blade. Otherwise, you may need to lean to the side in order to “present the knife”. For mine, if worn on the hip, the drop is perfect for this size knife! But, you MUST have the leg strap in order to draw the knife one-handed…the nylon has too much flex in it otherwise.
Yeah, I think I could get into making custom sheaths. But I don’t know how much to charge given the time it takes to make one of these.
Looking back at time & materials…this sheath “cost” as much as the knife
BUT, I learned a ton. I think I can do the next one in half the time…the one after that, in half-that-time.
Now…I need to find something to give this knife some good character… like some good old fashion field-wear

SUMMARY of saving money on firearms:
Over the years, I’ve learned how to get a good deal on firearms.
My most preferred way WAS ksl classifieds. They went commie on us, and don’t do gun-classifieds anymore 🙁
When they stopped, there was about 10,000 gun-classifieds on their website. I know this, because I had the app on my smartphone, and they were not smart enough to disable that access for a week or two.
So, I refuse to even go to their website now, because they compromised!
NOW, we use utahgunexchange.com, ran by my friend Nick! Nick & his website are awesome! I hope you are all addicted to searching for guns on utahgunexchange.com…like I’m 😉
If you know what not to buy, and how to read other humans, this is a great way to go.
I have only bought one gun I considered “used”. Most people break-the-gun-in for you and call it good. Most vendors say 200 rounds and they are broke in…the more you shoot it, the more reliable it gets (unless you are going OVER 100,000 rounds).
My main concern is, did someone “work on it”. Likely NOT qualified to work on guns. Never buy a gun where some jackass has “tuned the trigger”. I always function test and field strip the gun. I spend a good amount of time going over it and I have a set of questions I ask.
Pros of Utahgunexchange:
1) usually a great price.
2) no sales tax
3) no paper trails
4) meet awesome gun owners. no kidding, some of these “exchanges” have turned into friendships.
5) If you don’t like it, off-load it. You are NOT married to this gun 😉 Even though we often pet our guns, doesn’t mean we have a lifelong commitment to them.
Cons:
1) you might get 1 in a million that wants to scam/hurt you. Manage that risk!
2) If you don’t know your product, you “could” be taken in on a lemon. I’ve never had this issue. The worst issue I’ve ever had was a 1911 that was “difficult” to engage the safety. I paid the best 1911 gunsmith on the planet $20 and he fixed it while I waited.
Mars armament. Write him a check for $3,000. wait 3 years, and then you’ll get your Mars 1911. I’d say he is the top of the food chain for 1911s 🙂
I ALWAYS do the following:
1) are you a resident of the state of utah?
2) can you legally own a firearm?
3) bill of sale
4) require UT CFP.
all the bad guys, go onto other adds!
Next best is online-gun-buying IMO. slickguns.com is AWESOME! slickguns.com searches the internet and finds you the cheapest gun with free shipping!
This works really good for me because I have THE BEST ffl on the planet. I pay no sales tax, the transfer is really inexpensive ($50 unlimited transfers in 1 year).
So, between gunbroker.com, budsgunshop.com and slickguns.com — you should be well hooked up!
So, for an example. Last fall, several of my friends buy brand new XDM 9s ONSALE at a local shop for about $600. smoken’ good deal!
Well, I helped a friend last week get an XDM 9 for $505 delivered + FFL transfer fee. I called up the gunbroker.com person and said, if we bypass gunbroker we save both of us money, what price can you do w/o gunbroker?
I’ve done this many times, I always save a bundle!
Another great way to buy a gun is to wait for a cabela’s employee pricing coupon! Or wait for their once a year employee pricing “event/evening” where they feed you and everything in the store is employee pricing — usually a week before black friday.
If you are an NRA instructor, you can get deals on guns & accessories. Call up the manufacture and ask them.
For example, Henry will sell instructors their 22 lever action for 220 ish, good luck finding one that cheap!
http://www.slickguns.com/product/henry-lever-action-22lr-1825-barrel-25650
Keep in mind, usually the margins on gun sales is only 5-10% IMO. Most retail is 30% +…unless you are on amazon 🙂
Gun accessories margins, on the other hand are wide open!
So, you want to get into Cowboy Action Shooting (CAS)!
For CAS you basically need:
PROS of CAS:
CONS of CAS:
To compete in CAS matches, the guns need to be in the late 1,800s (most of us use replicas). Its a good idea to have your pistol & your rifle use the same caliber IMO.
Here are my notes from when I bought mine:
I paid $480 EACH for two NEW stainless steel 357 Ruger Vaqueros (cabelas sell these for about $700!)
I paid $335 for an IAC replica of the 1897 Winchester pump shotgun in 12ga 2 3/4″ with 20″ barrel and American walnut stock
I paid $995 brush popper (Cimarron 1873 Brush Popper 357 mag Short Stroked)
I bought them online and had them shipped to my FFL. I bought them all from the same guy, for a volume discount 🙂

If I knew what I know now:
I would get the REAL (non-replica) Winchester 1873 in 357. I’m STILL going to get one, they are new in 2013, and still hard to come by, still several hundred over MSRP on gunbroker. I want the case-hardened blue’d with octagonal barrel…in my living room, someday!
MAN, I’d go into debt for this!
http://www.winchesterguns.com/products/catalog/category.asp?family=027C
I bought a cheap-o 1897 shotgun. I wish I would have just bought a already smooth’d up 1897 from TL (st. george). At one shoot, I saw him selling original winchester for about $600-800….all smoothed up etc. So, if you can find a cowboy gun that is already smoothed up, that is likely a good bet…from a REAL CAS gunsmith!
Get on this guys email list: Brer Rabbit <rabbit54820 AT gmail.com>
Do NOT get a lever action 12ga!!!! the alternative is a coach gun (break-open). I like the pump(1897), as its good tactical practice & vice versa.
I didn’t think I’d like the shotgun(SG), but its my fav.
I’m a rifle guy (just speaks to my soul), so…its odd the SG speaks to me too….but just for CAS 😉
Have you seen my vids? run’n the shotgun(SG)?
So, here is a shopping list I would recommend for you:
STAINLESS ALL THE WAY, its like another $20-30!
http://www.slickguns.com/product/ruger-vaquero-357mag-4-58-fs-sass-56450
I recommend the brownells spring kit to smooth up your vaqueros, is all I’ve done to mine..I LOVE THEM!
I’d be happy to help you swap the springs.
or the non-sass version:
http://www.slickguns.com/product/ruger-vaquero-357mag-4-58-fs-glss-50840
I have the non-sass version. Do NOT get sucked into buying something other than a vaquero! Vaquero all the way. They are tanks. good value.
I would say 90% of the shooters at the match, are running vaueros.
1897 shotgun
out of stock, I don’t know if these are worth “smoothing up” I think TL would smooth one up for $125-150.
some guys add a choke, which is a good idea IMO.
http://www.slickguns.com/product/cimarron-1897-12-gauge-pump-action-shotgun-32999
1873 lever action – make sure you get a short-stroke’d one 🙂
having the same caliber as revolvers is important IMO. almost everyone uses 357( 357/38…but most have the low-powered 38 spc loads), especially if they are competitive. I’m so busy with my kids at the shoot, I usually don’t get too rap’d around being competitive. Someday I dream of going on world tour with my sweatheart with our cowboy & cowgirl gun & gear. To do that, I get all my kids into it so she comes along…once the kids are out of the house, we go on world tour!
geez, for this price, how can you go wrong?
http://www.slickguns.com/product/winchester-1873-short-357mag-blwd-20-inch-104598
I’m going to get the deluxe, just as soon as I can.
a replica 1873 makes sense, cuz you are going to beat it in matches…and I’d hate to do that to an original 1873.
You kind of got to figure out if you want octagonal and walnut checkering….and case hard’d bluing.
I think its worth another $100.
See if you can find one that is already short-stroked 🙂 VERY IMPORTANT!
The holsters are pricy. I made my own, all six of them. …for the price of one set….but lots of time & effort.
High desert leather (Tim) is a good way to go (Tim offered a one-time holster making class, which I took with my son; which got me started in all this leather stuff and holster making). Or I think Simmon is a bit cheaper than Tim.
You want double lined, form fitted holsters!! Don’t go cheap, it costs more(cuz you buy twice!). Get something you’ll be happy with your entire life, once the sting of the money is gone, you’ll be happy you got the right gear, that will last a lifetime!
THAT will get you started!
It is hard to get by without a “gun cart”! This is the one I bought:
http://www.cal-graf.com/products-page/gun-carts/simple-cart-pine/
I think pine is OK, I put on 7 layers of polyurethane and stained my DARK. But if you can afford hard wood, fine.
You don’t think you need a cart, but its a good way to keep your guns safe. Addin friends/kids, and 8 guns, no way can you carry all that gear AND be safe! and protect your guns 😉 without a cart!
IMO, most CAS are NOT safe and I see ongoing safety violations with “unloaded” guns at matches all the time. I don’t think I’ve ever been muzzled, but I’ve seen a lot of folks muzzle themselves!
I made a home-made buck skin shirt for my costume. carhart pants and a cowboy hat.
I don’t like cowboy boots with a tall heal, so I like the flat footed boots. I use a pair of all leather/old hiking boots.
Compared to a lot of shooting sports, I think its one of the safer sports.
and of course, you need to pick out and register an ALIAS. THIS can be fun!
<paste>
On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 7:21 PM, <JSFarnam> wrote:
21 Dec 13
Springfield Armory XD/S Recall:
The top four pistols we see at Courses currently are, Glocks, XDs, M&Ps,
and Kahrs. SIGs represent a distant 5th place. 1911s, Berettas, et al
bring up the rear. One exception is the Beretta Nano (small, 9mm concealment
pistol), which is right now enjoying appreciable popularity.SA’s XD/S, in 45ACP and 9mm, is another small, flat, single-column pistol,
specifically designed for concealed carry. It is very popular, and, like
all XDs, runs fine. We’ve seen a number come through Courses, and my wife
has a copy, which she likes and carries regularly.Earlier this year, SA found it necessary to recall the XD/S. Friends at
SA explained to me that a single customer, an XD/S owner, said he experienced
a “slam-fire” with his XD/S during the normal loading process. SA asked
the customer to send the weapon back to them, which he did. During
thorough testing at the factory, with all brands of ammunition, SA was unable to
duplicate the reported slam-fire, with the pistol in question, nor with any
other copy of the XD/S tested. No other slam-fire incidents, other than
the single one mentioned above, have ever been reported.It is a phenomenon I’ve never witnessed on the range with the XD/S, nor
with any other modern autoloading pistol.Nevertheless, design engineers at SA recommended to management that a small
design change be implemented with the XD/S that would make the pistol
absolutely drop-safe, and thus altogether immune from slam-fires.SA then courageously decided to voluntarily recall the XD/S for retrofit at
the factory. The recall was done very professionally, and included our
copy. We sent ours in, via FedEX as instructed, in September. It was just
returned to us, as promised, last week. It has been updated, inspected,
and tested, and they even included an extra magazine, a nice touch. All was
done at no charge. Shipping was pre-paid, both ways.Our XD/S now runs fine. Of course, it has always run fine!
SA deserves a lot of credit for, at great expense, quietly and
professionally correcting this ostensible design error, an error which, as noted
above, is probably mostly imaginary.When you have a copy of the XD/S, and have not yet sent it back to the
factory for this upgrade, I recommend that you do so, without delay. Either
way, it is extremely unlikely that you will ever experience any safety issue
with this pistol. However, for one, I’m not inclined to second-guess
design engineers at the factory. SA is bending over backwards to take good
care of its customers, and I sincerely recommend that you take advantage of
their magnanimity./John
John S. Farnam
_______________________________________________
Dtiquips mailing list
Dtiquips@clouds.com
Copyright 2013 by DTI, Inc. All rights reserved.
Thomas’ Ruger 10/22 mods and recommendations.
Philosophy of use (POU): not initial/nor beginner training rifle(first trainer should be a bolt action 22 IMO, so as they don’t just keep pulling the trigger, each shot counts—once they understand/do that, then they can move up to a ruger 10-22/semi-auto 22.
This list will help you prepare for an Appleseed rifle training (HIGHLY recommended!).
Building a Ruger 10/22 “Liberty Rifle”:
Reminder, My article “Freedom Rifle”?
https://libertyfoxdefense.com/freedom-rifle/
Before you get too far down the road with a Ruger 10/22 build-out. Take a look at S&W M&P ar15-22!
Please note, CURRENTLY appleseed does NOT allow M&P ar15-22, due to safety issues.
http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2012/07/patrick-shockley/gun-review-smith-wesson-mp-15-22/
Nutnfancy’s review of the S&W AR15-22:
James Yager’s thoughts on Ruger 10/22 & SW M&P ar15-22 (odd he came to the same conclusions).
One thing he did NOT point out, is with a 22 conversion kit, you have ONE rifle for bug-out, and you can shoot the 22 LR or 223/556.
M&P ar15-22 — $389 delivered to your FFL!
http://www.slickguns.com/product/sampw-mampp15-22-22lr-16quot-25rd-black-threaded-barrel-44999
http://www.slickguns.com/product/smith-wesson-mp15-22-threaded-barrel-811033-42999
Ruger 10/22 for $300 (ok, I’ve bought a bunch of these for $200 is off classifieds)
tech sights for $70
tapco stock $100 (super handy for different sized shooters)
trigger upgrade $33
bolt release $10
extended mag release $5
TOTAL=$540 ish. PLUS the hassle of ordering, assembling. Your kids will LOVE the way the ar15-22 looks and feels too!
1) bolt hold open
2) threaded barrel
3) 25 round mags
4) same muscle memory as the ar15.
5) shooting steel targets up close & on the move is FUN with a 22! not so fun with a 223/556 (cuz the steel is too close for 556)!
6) sure you can get a CMMG ar15 conversion kit to .22 (which I own and love), but I wish I’d spent an extra $200 bucks and gotten a M&P ar15-22 instead!
7) GI sights…built in! no upgrading!
Years ago, I had a goal to get each of my kids their own Ruger 10/22…then I figured, they need to EARN it by shooting accurately. 5 hits on steel spinners of 6 rounds total, and they earn a Ruger 10/22.
Re-thinking, I should have a “skills evaluation test” for my kids/posterity:
test1: steel spinners, reward is a M&P ar15-22
test2: combat handgun professional training graduate (40 hours or more), reward is a M&P 22 pistol or xd 9mm.
test3: combat rifle professional training graduate (40 hours or more), reward is an ar15.
THAT will pretty much guarantee that my kids and posterity “catch the vision” and hopefully they pass that onto all of their kids!
Of course these “tools” will remain in my safe…until they are adults & responsible!
** tech-sights (brownells gives me a NICE discount on these for the trs200, I get these for under $67!).
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/sight-sets/ruger-10-22-gi-style-aperture-sights-prod42596.aspx
Having GI sights is worth every penny!
** sling
Get a non-single-point-sling! I prefer the GI slings for appleseed, and nearly EVERY other context.
http://www.amazon.com/Tech-Sights-cotton-Libery-training/dp/B0045V9GVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388527157&sr=8-1&keywords=Sling+M14
** tapco t6 stock…for large & small shooters. If you are 6’5” or 5’2”, the telescoping stock is awesome for that perfect fit!
http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=tapco+ruger&ksubmit=y
Or, if you have a Ruger take-down 10/22, check out the magpul backpacker! So nice it is one unit, so its not rolling around in your pack banging against the other half!

**Improved trigger (my precision rifle and my 1022 are the only ones with improved triggers…just so you don’t think I’m a trigger snob. well, my ar15s have the RRA national match 2 stage too.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-bottom-metals/hammer-parts/hammers/10-22-drop-in-hammer-prod13872.aspx
** bolt release (as they should come from the factory)
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-hardware/bolt-releases/ruger-10-22-bolt-release-prod13870.aspx
I hate dealing with that default bolt release, you have to magically pull the bolt back and work the rocker-lever magically in order to lock it back and to release it! Whoever designed that…is defective!
** extended mag release
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-amp-action-parts/magazine-releases/ruger-10-22-mini-14-30-magazine-releases-prod55172.aspx
Magpul came out with a “backpacker” stock for the Ruger 10/22 takedown!
Awesomeness!
http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=magpul+ruger+take+down+backpacker&ksubmit=y
Ruger came out with a drop-in trigger assembly that greatly improves the trigger, but it does NOT include the bolt-release feature. I would recommend just getting the VOLQUARTSEN – 10/22® DROP-IN HAMMER & VOLQUARTSEN – RUGER® 10/22® BOLT RELEASE
The above should all be ordered and installed at the same time. There are hundreds of mods, but these will give you the most bang for your buck!
Here is the handout of a recent FREE HAM Radio Class I presented for my friends/neighbors/community.
murs-radio.com (I’ve ordered from Rob several times). Check out the dakota alert systems, they are awesome SECURITY….even in grid down.
http://www.hamradio.com (HAM Radio outlet) — I suggest the FT-60R (or for those on a budget tyt or px-888k, or KG-UVGd)
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-007323
See this article on “selecting the right radio”
Recommended antennas
https://signalstuff.com/

Pros/benefits
I’ve used a similar setup for helping my neighbors in the flood response. Being able to hear while operating noisy equipment like an ATV/bike is very helpful.
The ham radio guys were super excited to talk to a motorcyclist. They have talked with planes, boats and even space stations, but many said they’ve never talked to a motorcyclist.
Why not use FRS you say? Most FRS radios only have one pin and 1 watt, if you buy a cheap ham radio, you get two pins for more robust and you can “program” your radio for closer to 4 watts (not FCC approved, but it can be done).
For non-helmet headset, try:
requirements
(first level of licensing is Technician)
https://hamstudy.org/
* Flash cards | QUIZER
* THE ACTUAL test questions
https://www.google.com/#safe=active&q=Element+2+Technician+Class+Question+Pool
ALSO, search PLAY STORE on your smart phone/tablet for HAM radio study, there are some pretty helpful apps.
Answer’s bolded and larger text – kindle:
http://www.amazon.com/Amateur-Radio-Technician-General-Question-ebook/dp/B00CGEZGOS
RESOURCES:
http://www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/?s=ham+radio
PRIVACY TIPS!
HAM FAQ:
What is the cost of the exam?
Usually less than $15 cash–bring TWO forms of ID to the test.
http://www.arrl.org/what-to-bring-to-an-exam-session
How often do you need to renew license? Every 10 years. You may renew online.
Do I have to learn Morse Code? Not for the last 10+ years.
Call Sign LOOKUP/search FCC
http://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/UlsSearch/searchLicense.jsp
HEADS UP: Your full name and address can be looked up by using your call sign.
Storing your RADIO:
I suggest you store your radio with battery disconnected in an EMP proof bag & an AMMO can…in your trunk.
empbags.com
ALSO, you should get a ear-piece for your radio (hands free and privacy).
AND a battery pack you can thumb in AA or AAA batteries.
Please read the following carefully so we may have a successful class and you will
pass the exam and earn your license.
Location: Room 206 in the J. Reuben Clark Law building on BYU campus.
Room 206 is in the Southwest corner of the building.
The top of the interior map is East and the left is North. Enter the East facing doors just
West of the circular drive for passenger loading and unloading. Go to the
West end of the foyer turn left and follow the West wall South to room 206.
http://www.law2.byu.edu/images/building-maps/Floor-2-Law-Update2.gif
A parking permit is not required on Saturday. Don’t park in the usual restricted
spots like handicap without a permit, the Dean’s spot, delivery…. etc.
An interactive map of campus is here: http://map.byu.edu/
It is building #16 on the map; the J. Reuben Clark building (JRCB).
Another map is here: http://map.byu.edu/campusmap.pdf It is building
#16 in this map also.
GPS N 40 14.977′ W 111 38.718′
https://www.google.com/maps/place/J.+Reuben+Clark+Law+School/@40.249561,-111.645303,17z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x874d90b9b5243097:0x1be554f898be4823
Time: 8:00 am. To make this work you need to be on time. We have a lot of material to go
through. Lunch is 1 pm to 2 pm. Self-study and exams 2:30 pm to 5 pm. We need to be out
of the building by 6 pm. If you arrive at 7:30 am it will give you plenty of time to find the
room, refresh yourself (fancy talk for go to the bathroom) and get settled in your seat.
During the morning instruction there will not be enough time to take questions and get through all of the material. If you have questions write them on the class handout
(pick one up in the back of the classroom on your way in) and we will have a question
and answer session at the end of the instruction. Usually the answers to your questions
will be answered in the presentation. Before breaking for lunch we will discuss briefly
purchasing equipment you will need to get started in Ham radio.
Please read as much of the following free document as you can before the class. If there is
something you don’t understand skip over it. Please don’t be discouraged if you get confused.
There is nomenclature and concepts you may not be familiar with. By the end of the class you will know enough to pass the exam.
http://www.kb6nu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/2014-no-nonsense-tech-study-guide-v1.0.pdf
The guide is free in .pdf format but if you want to put it on your Kindle or Nook it is $7.99
and you can get it here:
http://www.kb6nu.com/tech-manual/
If you want REALLY concise here is a list of every question and the correct answer that will
be on the exam.
http://www.qualitymatrix.com/hamclass/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/2014-2018_Tech_Pool_Q+A_only.pdf
The exam is taken from a pool of 426 questions to make a 35 question exam. A specific
number of questions is used from each sub-element in the pool to make an exam.
Details are in the next link below.
Please register here and start studying. This is the website we will use for self-study in the afternoon:
https://hamstudy.org/
Hamstudy is free but Richard KD7BBC is very appreciative of donations to keep the website going. After you use it you will realize how good it is and how much time he has devoted.
Have even more time? Watch the videos here on Youtube:
http://dcasler.com/ham-radio/training/
He mentions the ARRL study manual. You will NOT need it to take the class and pass the exam.
If you need to cancel please let me know ASAP. It will not be fair to end up with empty seats!!
What you need to bring: Pen, An internet capable device, preferably a laptop but a smartphone or tablet will work. The device needs to have wi-fi for the internet connection
on the public open wi-fi that is available. I have several loaner laptops available. Let me
know if you need one. The internet will be used for studying in the afternoon and will not be
needed in the morning for the classroom instruction portion of the class.
Registering for the exam is not required to attend but we would really really like you to beforehand. You will have to register to take the exam.
Register for the exam session here:
https://hamstudy.org/sessions
Be sure you are registering for the exam in Provo, Utah on the 19rd of September 2015.
Occasionally someone has difficulty with this process. You will do fine if
read the instructions very carefully and don’t skip any steps.
During the registration for the exam session you will obtain a Federal Registration Number
(FRN). The FRN is issued to you by the FCC so they can keep track of all your
dealings with them. The FRN is used lieu of your Social Secuity Number. After you have
entered your information on the FCC website for your FRN the next page is confusing.
Your FRN is at the top of the page. Highlight the FRN and copy and paste it or write it
down to enter into the registration page on hamstudy.org. Be sure to print out your (Personal Identification Number) PIN for the exam session and
FRN once you have completed everything on hamstudy.org….. If for some reason you do
not take the exam the day of the class you will need your FRN to take an exam later.
Finding out your FRN if you don’t have a license is difficult so don’t lose your FRN. You will
also need to provide the FCC with a password which you will use later to use the Universal
Licensing System (ULS) so you can change your address if you move or renew your
license. DO NOT LOSE YOUR PASSWORD!! you will need it later for access to the FCC
website to print out your license, renew your license or change your address.
You are right I repeated that….. don’t lose your password for the FCC ULS……
You need to bring two forms of ID. One with a picture like a driver’s license.
14.00 cash or check to pay for the exam.
ID requirements for test sessions are rather liberal. One of the IDs needs to be with a picture.
It is often difficult to find ID for children. If a child does not have ID with a picture we
will accept the picture ID of the accompanying adult plus another issued to the child.
The following are good for ID with preference given to something with
your picture on it issued by a government entity that also has your current address:
Social Security card
Birth Certificate
Passport
“Green” card
Driver’s license
State ID card
Concealed Weapons permit
Medicaid card
Military ID
Library card if it is not a card your name has been written on but the name is
embossed on the card by machine.
Student ID
School Faculty ID
If you can’t find anything else a canceled letter addressed to the test candidate will work for
ID but only as a last resort. If you have any questions about what is appropriate for ID
please e-mail me before the day of the class and exam.
As part of security in the building please stay on the main floor and don’t go wandering
around the library or building. Students have been asked to report anyone just wandering
around and we don’t want a visit from the guys with badges and guns!!
Please be patient trying to learn this stuff. Several years ago a woman and her mother
were in the class and the woman kept laughing when I said something. Finally at the break I
asked her why she kept laughing. “I don’t understand any of this. You might as well be
speaking Greek.” I told her to just keep listening and then in the study period she would get
a better idea of how much she really understood. She only studied a couple of hours that
after noon and went in and passed the exam just fine.
I’ve used a few different software solutions, including the software from the radio’s manufacturer.
Recently I’ve tried the open source chirp along with the correct USB driver.
I like that I can import/export CSV files. Use the same desktop management software between different/supported radios.
Before installing chirp, make sure your radio is supported. Because chirp is open source, it has a lot of cross vendor support.
I was able to configure my radio to communicate with FRS/GMRS radios by reading this article
http://kv5r.com/ham-radio/gmrs-frs-frequencies-and-ctcss/
ch1 462.5625 tone mode (tsql), tonesql 67, power low
UPDATE: Chirp can import all FRS/GMRS frequencies.
These are the items I purchased to auto-turn-off my radio when not at my desk (the static bothers my co-workers that are staff’d 24×7).
I had to order three of these until I found one that worked!
Make sure you get at least the 1 amp
SUMMARY:
This article will help you prepare for an upcoming handgun class. Here I’ll be talking about the pros/cons of different gear and a good cost/benefit ratio for your investment.
WHAT IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE gun, training or gear?