Side-by-side UTV/ATV DIY Roof for a Pioneer 1000-5 2016/2017/2018.

The dealer wanted a fortune for a plastic roof.

My roof requirements.

1. storage of cargo
2. heavy cargo like an elk
3. provide shade in the summer
4. protect against wet/ice
5. not damage the roll-cage.
6. not rattle or “flex noise”.

 

Coyote Tan, matte/camo Cerakote (ceramic paint)…going for “discrete camo”

 

 

ROOF BUILD

 

 

 

I got a quote for a 5×8 1/8 aluminum sheet from metal mart, it was just under $400!  So, I called Affiliated Metals in SLC and got a quote for $180 out the door for the same sheet.

The 1/8 turned out to be a bit thicker when I mic’d it.  But, I was already home and figured I’d make due with what I had.

TIPS/TRICKS.

1. I measured and added 4 inches. I wish I’d added 7 inches and then if needed cut it twice. Once the sheet is not too wobblie, a saws-all can cut it pretty easy.
2. I used long sheets of paper, but I would recommend cardboard to line-up the bolts from the mounts.
3. If you can find a metal-bender, make the sheet 10″ longer and then bend a rain-troth/groove.  I used .9 kydex to fabricate a rain gutter.
4. I tried a rivet gun, it was too thick for the one I had.
5. I used a long pipe to use as a mold for the kydex “rain gutter”.

 

MATERIALS – about $300 ish.

1. $180 5×8 sheet of aluminum
2. $20-40 of .9 kydex  (I had it on hand because I make pouches (mag pouches, flashlight pouches) out of .9.  I didn’t have a piece long-enough, so I had to use two pieces.
3. Heat gun
4. saws-all
5. drill & bits
6. $4.00 of Chicago screws (again from my leather working. Tandy leather has 100 for $35 ish. Most people that will be a life-time supply. I buy them in 1000s and get them down to about 10 cents a piece.
7. Threadmate installed wet to dry more permeant.
8. $54 ($6x$9) UTV roll-cage mounts AKA “Tusk Center Hole UTV Clamp 1 3/4″-1 7/8″ – 2017 HONDA Pioneer 1000-5”
   1. TIP, I wished I’d bought an extra one to support the middle of the sheet in the center bar of the UTV.
      

      two screws to tighten and about 3/8 hole for your bolt to poke through and snug onto sheet.

9. $10 stainless steel bolts, nuts & washers from ace-hardware.
10. $35 Cerakote (ceramic paint) from brownells. I’m doing desert tan for less sun-heat and more camo.

 

BUILD PHOTOS:

 

 

 

oil change

 

GET HOME KIT

1. gloves
2. jackets
3. HT ham radio
4. strap with d-rings
5. tire-repair kit
6. snacks
7. extra water bottles under the seat.

OTHER MODS & PLANNED MODS

Mod1 – engine fan override, so I can turn on the fan before I climb a very steep mountain, that takes about 30 minutes to climb @ about 15-25 mph.

TWO fans are better than 1! and I can flip a switch and turn on the fan!

 

Mod2 – street kit

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1155/46360/Tusk-UTV-Horn-%26-Signal-Kit-With-Mirrors?v=2017-HONDA-Pioneer-1000

 

Mod 3 – winch

Here is the winch and winch-mount-plate I went with and I really love them. I tested this on a 45 degree angle 100 yard up-ward mountain with snow/ice and it worked out great!

 

Mod 4 – flood lights

Mod 5 – winter windshield (do NOT put a windshield on a pioneer in the summer time, you will cook and be too hot!). Because I’m only going to run a windshield in the winter time, I’m thinking I want a full windshield if there is a cost savings.

Mod 6 – spare tire & mount

I’m really excited about this. I finally found  a local guy to fabricate a “bed extender/spare tire mount/fuel mount.  I think he normally charges $400 ish, but I wanted the tire/fuel mount.  He needed the fuel can (rotopack) to ensure it’d all fit together. So, including the rotopack, he asked $590, I tip’d and rounded up to $600.  This was RAW, so instead of powder coating, I used brushed bedliner on it. I hung it in my enclosed trailer and did the floor of the trailer at the same time. Rolling the bedliner on, helped it go much further.

I used this bedliner kit: https://amzn.to/2Gpb2Zu
I did an entire floor & ramp of a 7×16 enclosed trailer with one gallon.

Please note high lift jack/mount.

 

This is the tire & wheel I went with for my spare:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/3355/75120/Douglas-Crusader-Wheel?77&v=13335&idd1=75120&idd2=3355

bighorn 2.0 28x9x14
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/723/23155/Maxxis-Bighorn-2.0-Radial-Tire?s=952684

20mm ammo can, bought years ago for $15.

Ammo can lock, works great on 20mm ammo can and use your step bit to drill a TIGHT hole. Please note, I added elec-tape to make the lock less rattle for the bumps.

 

 

Mod 7 – fire extinguisher

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1018/45506/Tusk-UTV-Fire-Extinguisher-Kit?s=974423

 

Mod 8 – roof-rack. I went with 1.5″ aluminum angle iron from Lowes. One on each side ($20 each). I’m really happy with it.

 

Leave more material in the anchor hole, so water doesn’t run through the hole.  I used a step-bit to drill the hole to the size of my ratchet strap.

Pros:

1. Its not too tall that you couldn’t get your UTV into an enclosed trailer/shed, but you could cargo-net/strap things down and it could provide lateral support for a cooler or cargo.
2.  I tested it with the hose and it helps a lot for preventing side-water from coming into the cab, but it needs some sealant too.  One of the mount holes I drilled is too close to the bottom, so leave some material near the bottom of the rail if you are using it as a rain-gutter too.
3. Good for mounting ratchet straps/cargo nets etc.
4.  Stiffens the edge for strength. Its in a couple of inches so it shouldn’t get hit…or shouldn’t get hit very hard. I’m thinking the only way to really damage this is to flip the UTV over onto the rack. Its only 1.5″ high, so even then it should be “ok”.
5. The stainless steel bolts help make it strong. I have more, but I’m still deciding if I want to add more bolts or not.

 

Mod 9 – flag mount. I’ve got the air-host quick disconnect ready, I just need a mount for it.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1430/25099/Tusk-UTV-Vertical-Flag-Mount

 

Mod 10 – expand door “water bottle”, needs 2nd half of kydex to hold a larger water bottle. The built in ones does NOT fit my contingo water bottles 🙁

The cup-holders on the dash, get HOT from the radiator, so even if frozen…it thaws quickly.  The door bottle-holders, shouldn’t have hot air flow onto them or be too close to a heat source.

The kydex, when purchased in a 4’x8′ sheet, is almost free for this and super easy to heat-up and self-tap screw in. Notice the red threadmate?  so the selftapping screws don’t walk out with lots of bumps.

Please note, in the following photo. I REALLY heated up the plastic door, which is NOT kydex.  Took a long time to heat-up and a long time to cool-off. Compare to the other side where I did NOT do this.  I would try w/o remolding the door and see if you like it.  I don’t think it is worth heating the door to make a space to remove water bottle straight up (you can flex the kydex so you can get the bottle out w/o remolding the door).

Here is the other side w/o remolding the door:

 

Rear seat smaller-water-bottle holder.

 

Mod 11 – Under roof shelf for gear

WIP. http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-17-18-PIONEER-1000-3-5-GENUINE-Honda-Under-Dash-Storage-Pocket-08L71-HL4-F00-/252954201847?hash=item3ae53ecef7:g:s4sAAOSwcgNZJHNb

 

Mod 12 – hood rollbar/brush guard – https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1016/58137/Honda-Front-Bumper-Brush-Guard?v=12609

big upside is, this bumper gives me roll-forward protection of my hood.

I would like a 2″ receiver hitch in the front, for parking trailers and such.

Mod 13 – SWITCH PANEL for engine-fan-over-ride switch!  The aluminum “safety plate” is perfect for mounting a gang-switch. I used a router-bit on my dremel. Cut less and then cut a bit more. I’d come in from the right side a bit more if I were doing it again; because there isn’t much to mount to that far to the right.

 

Mod14 – taller tires

After 1100 miles in 7 months, my rear tires were about 50% worn out, so for more clearance and better traction, I upgraded my tires to Tusk Terrabite HD UTV Radial 8-Ply DOT Tires

With ITP SS316 Alloy Series Wheels(make sure you get compatible lug nuts). These wheels/tires rocked moab off road trails! I’m very happy with them. Going from 27>28″ gives me more clearance and a bit faster speeds on the hwy.

I found that with the taller rear tires I was “pushing my front gear box in 4×4″, so I felt I should upgrade the front tires sooner than later.  I’m thinking I could run 29″ w/o issue, but the 28″ are awesome and if/when I wear them out, I’ll go with 29” and try them.  Upside of these tires, I can rotate front to back…as rear tires wear out faster for me.

 

Mod15 – bed extender, spare tare carrier and spare fuel carrier.

I found a local fabricator. Raw metal for under $600, includes fuel canister.

https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/50882242

Or call/text Jared: (801) 710-0910

Bedliner on rack looks great and is rugged (primary feature for me).

MOD16 Aviation Intercom with noise canceling microphone boom for UTV/Side-by-Side

Even though the P1000 is one of the less noisy rigs, it is still loud enough to affect long term hearing and prevent conversations. This is a game changer, especially on motorcycles having communications makes an enjoyable experience 10x better.

I took the back cover off the intercom, drilled two holes and used a chicago screws to fasten it onto a piece of .90 kydex, that extends the surface area so I can put screws in it for my dash, so I can remove it to pressure wash or remove it to replace the 9v battery. I then daisy chained to another intercom that is a 2 way, this gives me more headsets (5 in total) and extends the length of the two head sets in the back seat (otherwise their cords would not be long enough).

I used a ram-mount to mount my ham radio (the intercom has a PTT that will go to the radio- Get with Austin and he’ll build you one and or sell you an entire kit! which is what I suggest and you’ll save a bundle buying from Austin).

First time we used the intercom, I took my daughter and a few of their friends out. It was fun to hear them laugh/giggle and squill as we drove through rugged country.

I bought mine for $165 off ebay.

These have great reviews and they have lasted my abuse for almost a year (so far).

Rugged Air RA200 Black General Aviation Pilot Headset for $85 each.

Each headset has their own volume control.

ORDER LIST:

1. Intercom with radio PTT Mic from Austin. I think its $120 ish?
2. Rugged Air RA200 General Aviation Pilot Headset with Noise Reduction Order one for each seat in your machine.
3. Radio to talk to other vehicles.
4. Power supply for intercom –  DC Car Charger Auto Power Supply Cable,12-24V 4FT Car Cigarette Lighter Male Plug to DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm / 4.0mm x1.7mm Connector Cord 
5. rubber twist ties for headsets
6. You MAY need an extension for the headsets in the back seat. Avcomm Headset Splitter – 5′ – P2010
7. Most of us use kydex to mount the intercom to the machine, so you can remove it for deep cleaning pressure washing.
8. ram mount for ham radio & base.

 

 

165	intercom (Thomas paid too much, should have waited for Austin)
425	5 headsets
40	mic and install
50	ram mount for radio
25	ham radio
705

Mod17 – after market air intake.

I found the parts on HTTPS://WWW.ROCKYMOUNTAINATV­MC.COM/OEM-PARTS/HONDA
The first schematic is “Front Fender+Hood” Number 4, 6 & 15. The chat/tech assured me its the upgraded intake cover as shown in above video.

MOD18 – A-arm armor.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/711/45469/Honda-Front-A-Arm-Guards?v=13335&s=1162075

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/711/45470/Honda-Rear-A-Arm-Guards?v=13335&s=1162076

Mod 19 Heater solutions

 

heated seats is a good way to go.

I bought the golf-cart  heater and removed a cup-holder and inserted it. I also tethered it with twistie ties.

 

Mod20 Dual Battery

Justification for running winch, lights etc w/o impacting amp/watts for eletricially controlled transmission.

 

 Pros/Cons of Honda Pioneer 1000-5

Pros:

1. rear differential unlock (turf mode) means you are not tearing up your grass. It also means you wear out less tires on pavement.
2. Lots of “modes”.  rear-diff-unlocked, rear-diff-locked, rear-diff-locked & front 4×4 diff unlocked, rear-diff-locked & front 4×4 with diff locked.  high/low.  manual transmission or automatic transmission. Within RPM ranges, you can manually up-shift or down-shift with paddles.  6 speed in high or low. There is a sport-mode, that shifts later so you have more rpm/torque.
3. 1000 cc, with 1000 lbs in bed load capacity & 2000 lbs pulling capacity.
4. 3 seat bench seat, with option to fold-up two seats in the rear.
5. quiet engine & transmission…compared to CVT rigs.
6. Fun for sport and fun for utility.  I think this machine is unstoppable.
7. At 1500 ish lbs, and amazing suspension, you can go fast over rough terrain and not get bounced to death like a truck/jeep.
8. I paid another $900 for a 5 year warranty.
9. Many UTV pros like high-flotation tires, light weight frames, skid plates cover the under belly. Its really hard to hurt these things.
10. SEAT BELTS, this is the main reason I’m switching from ATV to UTV. One trip to the hospital you can buy a UTV! I want my family safe!
11. The nets are handy in case you “react” and put your arm out if you roll-over, but with 63″ wide, under normal usage, I can’t see if rolling over.
12. I paid a lot of money to rent a 2017 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 to test it out before I purchased it.  I’d say it is worth the money before you spend a shload of money buying one! My dealer rented it to me and then put 50% of my rental fee towards my new machine!  I also went SXS with friends that had a Rzr 800 & 900 and would swap between vehicles out to “forest lake”. I almost bought a RZR, but then I thought of my teenagers getting hurt going too fast, and I’m more of a explorer/utility guy.  Yard work, hunting & exploring.
13. Two air-filters, a pre and main air filter.
14. The bed lifts up for maintenance of tranny/engine space.

 

Cons:

1. Heat in center, because the engine is in the center…which is great for center of gravity, it gets HOT if you have a windshield and its 100 degrees outside! They have a retro-fit heat kit that is coming soon, that will be “kind of a recall” that the dealer installs free of charge. Otherwise I would not have purchased this system.
2. price! These things are PRICY!
3. manual says climbing requires low. Low is not that low IMO.
4. lots of rattling from rear-seats/bed…I don’t think the rental had this issue. The dump bed rattles when you don’t have anything heavy in there! I FIXED most of my bed rattle with elec tape on the connections/quick release of bed.
5. when both seats in the rear are deployed, you have about a 4″ “bed”, another reason to have a solid roof for cargo!
6. Manual says, see dealer for everything. I like to hack on my own vehicles to save money, understand/learn and to “really care” about up-keep.  So, “see dealer” bugs me.
7. not a lot of after-market accessories…yet.

 

Pros/cons.

62″ wide seems very wide for a lot of hunting trails, but that also gives you more lateral stability.  If it was just me and one other passenger, I think I could be happy with a Yahaha wolverine.

 

OTHER MACHINES I considered.

Kawi Teryx 4, 4 seater…kind of bouncy.  a bit under powered for pulling IMO.

Yamaho Wolverine…but they don’t have a 4-5 seater(They NOW have a 4 seater). I test drove it briefly at a dealer & was impressed. If a friend buys one, I’d like to go do more testing with it. I think this is a really tough machine.

Mule pro.

RZR 900/1000.